San Francisco Treat

As most recent fathers have come to learn, a "push-gift" has become as expected as an anniversary or Valentine's Day present. With the birth of my first child I dutifully purchased the requisite "push-gift" for my wife to show my appreciation for the son she had given me. Now, after six months of changing diapers and late-night feedings it became clear to us both that we needed a "push-vacation".

We planned out a trip filled with the pleasures that have been missing from our lives since the birth of our child - romantic dinners, fine wine and relaxation. With the U.S. dollar in freefall we selected the most romantic of American cities, San Francisco and the surrounding Bay Area.

As we headed north over the Golden Gate bridge in our rented convertible, I felt a sense of calm and tranquility that had recently been absent from my life. Crossing into Marin County, our first destination were the soaring redwoods and running brooks of Muir Woods.

Filled with walking paths and trails ranging in difficulty, Muir Woods is a placidity seeker's paradise just 15 minutes north of San Francisco. A short distance from the woods are the coastal towns of Muir Beach and Stinson Beach, each providing beautiful ocean views, bone-chilling waters and perhaps a final opportunity for provisions such as food and gas.

Heading north along Highway 1 you quickly realize that development has not afflicted the northern coast of California as it has much of the rest of the coastal U.S. Miles of cliffside roads await, dotted with dairy farms and small rural towns. One such town, Bodega Bay, was used by Alfred Hitchcock as the movie set for the movie "the Birds" -- making it a perfect, if not eerie place, to stop. The Bodega Bay Lodge (103 Coast Highway One, Bodega Bay, CA 1-800-368-2468) provides balconied oceanview rooms with the benefit of spa services. Saunas, work out rooms and a heated pool are free for all guests, but I seemed to spend most of my time in the outdoor whirlpool staring at the vast Pacific Ocean and the green bluffs of Bodega Bay laid out before me.

Bodega Bay also serves as a wonderful launching point into Sonoma County's wine regions. Not as well known, or traveled, as their neighbors to the east in Napa, the vineyards and wineries of the Alexander, Russian River and Sonoma Valleys produce wines that are of equally great quality.

The cool ocean breezes that permeate throughout the lower portions of the Russian River Valley make this home to some of our country's finest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. The wineries are set among rolling hills, and for a small fee - often waived with the purchase of a bottle - you can enjoy outdoor tastings at several of them. Among the best sampled on my trip were Iron Horse and Lynmar vineyards, both located just off of Route 116.

Continuing east along the Sonoma Highway you enter the Sonoma Valley, home to larger wine producers such as Chateau St. Jean, Blackstone and Kenwood. These nationally recognized producers offer wonderful tastings with the option of food pairings specially chosen to complement the wine selections. For a somewhat different experience, try the more intimate setting offered at one of the many boutique wineries dotting the landscape throughout the Sonoma Valley. One such option is the award-winning Arrowood winery in Glen Ellen, where you can sample wines you are unlikely to find at your local wine shop and simultaneously receive an education on the winemaking process from the very gracious staff.

With several bottles in tow and fatigued by hours of wine tasting, some comfort is in order. Many fine B&Bs and inns can be found throughout the region, but it would be difficult to imagine a more luxurious option than the Kenwood Inn & Spa (10400 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, CA - 800/353-6966). This Italian villa-inspired inn resonates with character and charm. From the beautifully appointed lobby with views of the vineyards just outside its doors to the rooms decorated with loving attention - after seeing the room my wife has decided a bedroom renovation for our home is in order - you might find yourself wondering if you have touched down in Tuscany. The hotel's romantic air makes you forget that rooms do not contain televisions. In the morning a wonderful complimentary breakfast is served, which can be enjoyed in the hotel's lovely courtyard among flowers and Italian fountains.

From Kenwood it is a short drive back to the world-class city of San Francisco and its majestic entrance, the Golden Gate Bridge. From the south side, several vantage points exist for views and picture taking, such as Chrissy Field, but you would be best served by heading to the Marin Headlands before crossing over the bridge. The headlands area is a part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and on a clear day -- good luck -- affords panoramic views of the city skyline, Angel Island, Alcatraz, the East Bay, the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge and of course the Golden Gate Bridge.

The Marin Headlands is also the home to a number of historic military settlements and fortifications, including Fort Cronkhite, Fort Barry and a large number of bunkers and batteries. The military installations were built to prevent hostile ships from entering San Francisco Bay. Also located in the Marin Headlands is the Point Bonita lighthouse, which has existed at its current location since 1877.

Unlike most cities on the West Coast, San Francisco has distinct neighborhoods offering their own flavor, history and attractions. It would be impossible to fully experience each one during a short vacation, nor should you attempt to. As a home base we selected SOMA (South of Market) and the nearby Financial District.

At street level San Francisco is blessed with views and vistas unparalled by any other American city, but from high atop one of the city's modern skyrise hotels your view is limited only by the famous San Francisco fog. The Westin San Francisco Market Street (50 Third Street), with floor-to-ceiling windows in its rooms, or the nearby W hotel (181 Third Street - 800/877-WHOTEL), with its trendy lounge and quirky room design, both captivate guests with their views.

The SOMA district was transformed in the late 1990s by an influx of dot-com millionaires who converted older buildings and warehouses into lofts and luxury apartments. The gentrification of this neighborhood has resulted in an increase of cultural opportunities day and night. A family can enjoy the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, the Museum of the African Diaspora or by simply taking a walk through the Yerba Buena Gardens, all located in SOMA. For those seeking adult fun there is Varnish Fine Art (77 Natoma Street, 415-222-6131), a combination art gallery/wine bar, or the Financial District's Cafe Claude (7 Claude Lane 415/392-3515), a back alley French Bistro offering reasonably priced traditional dishes in a romantic (yet lively) atmosphere. On weekends the atmosphere is further enhanced by a wonderful jazz band. For those seeking a little more pulse and volume to their music there is Mezzanine (444 Jessie Street, 415-625-8880), a cool, live-music venue, which occupies a warehouse once inhabited by a dot-com.

Following a Friday evening of late-night revelry there's no better way to enjoy a San Francisco morning than strolling the gourmet marketplace in the Ferry Building and snacking your way through breakfast or brunch. Tasty tenants, open daily, include many of the best of Northern California's gourmet bounty, but those visiting the Ferry Building on Saturdays are also treated to an outdoor farmers' market where you can enjoy snacks while admiring the view of the nearby San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge.

Navigating the hills of San Francisco on foot can be quite exhausting and might serve as an easy excuse for hopping on one of San Francisco legendary cable cars. The California line ends near the Ferry Building and return you to the Financial District by way of Chinatown, though you would be advised to hop on one of the cars servicing the Powell/Hyde Line if you are seeking a more scenic ride.

At the conclusion of our "push-vacation" my wife and I were relaxed and satisfied and even excited at the prospect of returning to late-night feedings and diaper changing, so much so that I think we may have even mentioned having a second child. Perhaps it was the wine.